Puerto Chacabuco and Chilean Fjords

I've been interested in the many varieties of trees and plants in South America. Two stand out and they're present here in Chacabuco.

The leaves of Araucaria evergreen trees are pointed and razor sharp. We've seen two varieties in South America. Here in Chacabuco we see the Araucaria araucana or "umbrella tree." The term "umbrella" describe the mature appearance of these trees, after they lose their lower limbs. Araucaria araucana is also widely known as the monkey puzzle tree. It was so named by an Englishman who thought it would be quite a puzzle for a monkey to figure out how to climb this tree. Araucaria trees have edible seeds similar to pine nuts which are harvested, somehow, around the sharp leaves.

Gunnera sp. is a giant rhubarb-like plant which grows wild in Chacabuco. We had seen it last summer in a garden outside a Pender Harbour pub in BC, Canada and we were amazed by its enormous highly indented leaves and its interesting flower stalks. I read that the base of the leaves is home to nitrogen-fixing bacteria which live in an unusual symbiotic relationship with the plant. The bacteria allow Gunnera to grow in soils poor in nitrogen. This is a unique adaptation of this genus. The stalks can be eaten raw in salads.

Chacabuco is on the Aisen Fjord at the 45th parallel, like our home in Depoe Bay, Oregon in the northern hemisphere. This port is a center for the salmon fishery in Chile. There is a large fish processing plant here and the fish seem to be loaded directly into big refrigerated shipping containers to be sent off to markets abroad. Salmon aquaculture is also prevalent in the Chilean fjords. It is a busy place for tourism, too. It's wet and rugged and home to the Rio Simpson National Reserve.

The Chilean fjords remind us very much of the Canadian waters we sail in summer, especially Desolation Sound. The farther north we go, the calmer the waters become, and gradually we see more fishing boats. At the 41st latitude, the Pacific West Wind Drift current meets South America and splits. The Humboldt Current runs north and the Cape Horn Current runs south. Tides in the fjords can range 24 feet. The Aisen Fjord connects to the Moreleda Channel as we travel north from Chacabuco.

Strait of Magellan

Lonely reaches of the Strait of Magellan.

Painted Selk'nam people, who lived in the interior of Tierra del Fuego.


The Strait of Magellan is a difficult 350 mile passage, but safer than the Drake Passage between Cape Horn and Antarctica. This route was discovered in 1520 by Ferdinand Magellan on his voyage to find the Spice Islands of Indonesia. Until the Panama Canal was completed in 1914, the Strait was the main route for steam ships between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The Strait separates the mainland of South America and the Isla Grande of Tierra del Fuego and has been controlled by Chile since 1843. Along its remote empty miles we imagine the loneliness and self-sufficiency of long ago crews and ships.

Punta Arenas ("sandy point"), a center of commerce where forests and plains converge on the north side of the Strait, was founded in 1848. The immigrants were Spanish and Croatian. We walk up from the tender dock and along 21 de Mayo avenue to the main square. There is an information building in the square and there is a small market of booths selling handcrafted woolen items and jewelry. Vendors display deep blue lapis lazuli stones set in silver. There are earrings and necklaces. In Argentina, the national stone rhodochrosite (rose colored manganese carbonate) is cut, polished, set, and sold in much the same way.

Pan pipe music filters through the trees and we cross the square past the monument of Ferdinand Magellan on our way to the Sara Braun Palace. This grand old mansion is a museum, a hotel, and a restaurant. It is here that Henry discovers delicious chupe, the Chilean national dish. Then, after lunch, we find the Braun Menendez house, another museum displaying the households of the powerful early families in this community. The wealth of these families accrued from sheep production and control of about 10,000 sq km in southern Chile and Argentina. Unique to this mansion, is the open downstairs (basement) servant work areas and living quarters. After the Panama Canal was completed, commerce slowed considerably here in Punta Arenas.

Back in the square we note the bronze of the native Patagon at the base of Magellan's statue. His foot is brightly polished. Legend has it that those kissing that foot will return. Later we venture inside the Catholic church. We admire its enormous mosaic of Jesus's face above the altar and life-size statue of the beautiful St. Teresa of the Andes just inside the door. Walking back to the port area, a group of school-age young men in blazers and ties races past us to the intersection. They laugh and joke with all the exuberance of their youth.

Ushuaia and Glaciers of the Beagle Channel

Ushuaia, Argentina

Italia Glacier, Beagle Channel

Ushuaia, Argentina claims to be the most southern city of South America. It was founded in 1870 by Anglican missionaries to protect the native Yamana people. We were able to visit the outside part of the closed Museo Yamana which had replicas of dwellings and boats used by indigenous people. The Yamanas, who adapted for thousands of years to the nomadic fishing life of Tierra del Fuego, are gone now. They were victims of disease and hunting competition from whalers, seal hunters, and gold seekers. Jemmy Button was one of four Yamana taken by FitzRoy of the Beagle to England and then returned home on the voyage with Darwin. His amazing story was been told by Bruce Chatwin in his book In Patagonia, and others.

In 1896 Argentina established a prison in Ushuaia and in 1902 the Argentine navy moved there on the northern shore of the Beagle Channel and in the shadow of the Martial mountain range. We walked to the old prison/military base which is now the Museo Maritimo. Its exhibits show cells reminiscent of Alcatraz with lifesize models of some of its most famous residents--hardened criminals and political prisoners. This museo also included maritime history of exploration and some native points and baskets. Ushuaia is a jumping off point for Antarctica.

Later in the afternoon, we float through the Beagle Channel, where Captain Fitz Roy and Charles Darwin sailed in 1833. It's a narrow passage, with not much room to tack for the HMS Beagle between the northern island with the Darwin cordillera mountain range and ice sheets and the complex series of islands to the south. Six fabulous glaciers from the ice sheets to the north come down to the sea in quick succession as we slowly proceed westward. The glaciers are named for European countries: the Holanda, the Italia, the Francia, the Alemania, the Romanche, and the Espana. Even in the misty weather, the glaciers seem to emit a mysterious blue glow. Only one, the Italia glacier, actually falls into the channel now. Most of them are receding. As night falls we dine with friends in Il Adagio Itallian restaurant leaving the glaciers behind.

Cape Horn

Back toward the west across the southern sea we go, all night and all day. In the late afternoon, we catch a glimpse of land on the horizon. As we approach the southern end of South America, the sea calms and the light breaks through the overcast skies. We sit in the observation lounge watching our approach with camera in hand. Occasionally we walk outside on the bow deck and snap a few photos.

Then the Horn comes into view and we cruise into the Drake Passage. The ship slows and, as the light changes and intensifies, we return to our cabin balcony to observe and record our passage around the Horn. We are fortunate. The seas remain calm and the sunset light intensifies. We can't take enough pictures. It's such an extraordinary experience here at the bottom of the earth. The cruise director broadcasts a historical commentary. We turn our gaze toward the stern and a brilliant sunset surprises us. As the light fades into night we sail north toward Ushuaia.

Bluff Cove Lagoon, Falkland Islands

The passage offshore from Puerto Madryn was rough. Winds were up to 40 knots and the seas were 18-20 feet. Just imagine dancers in last night's show keeping their balance while the Stardust Lounge curtains swayed crazily on either side. Happily none of our group became seasick. This morning it was uncertain whether we would be able to land tenders at the Falkland Islands. After about an hour's delay, the seas calmed somewhat and we headed in to meet our ride to Bluff Cove Lagoon.

First was a van ride in the fog and rain out of Stanley. We met our 4x4 Landrover driver who immediately took us off-road. We dropped off the highway between stone runs and powered through rocks and mud and vegetation, slipping through small streams, bumping up and down and sideways. Stone runs are "rivers" of boulders. The trip was extremely messy because of the rain. Our driver was a former sheep farmer. He and his son, among others, brought their Landrovers for this trip to earn some extra cash. The price of wool is down so farmers take advantage of the cruise ship landings to drive visitors on this excursion to Bluff Cove Lagoon. This was our first off-road experience and we really got an initiation. By the time we arrived, the Landrover, including its windows, were covered with mud. It continued to be foggy and misty.

Bluff Cove Farm is a family farm like none I've seen before. They raise Perendale sheep (4-5 acres per sheep) and belted Galloway cattle on about 35,000 acres, but we didn't see much of this livestock. Our driver dropped us off at the Bluff Cove Lagoon and we got out into the inclement weather to see hundreds of Gentoo penguins and one King penguin with its chicks. We were cold but we forgot about the uncomfortable wind and wetness as we watched these wonderful creatures. The King penguin was taller and more colorful than the rest with orange and yellow ear patches and neck. It stood in one place tending its three chicks. It was easy to photograph this beautiful family. The Gentoo penguins were much more active, walking about with their wings flapping out in the wind for balance. The Gentoos have a white stripe above their eyes and orange beaks and feet, a rather clown-like appearance next to the stately King.

When the cold finally penetrated to our bones, we walked up the hill to see Hattie and her family and friends at the Sea Cabbage Cafe. This being the last cruise of the year to arrive at the Falklands, they roasted lamb and upland geese and served these with homemade rolls, chutney, and champagne. All manner of delicious desserts came last. We enjoyed wild diddle dee berry preserves with scones along with tea in china cups and saucers to the accompaniment of old songs played on the accordion. We will remember Hattie's Sea Cabbage Cafe and that wild afternoon.

Punta Tombo Rookery

Magellanic penguin at Punta Tombo rookery, Patagonia

As we land in Puerto Madryn, no time is lost in hustling passengers onto waiting excursion buses bound for the Punta Tombo penguin rookery 100 miles south. It's a long ride, and through desolate countryside. We see no trees, but desert vegetation, and in some places much litter from what appears to be an open landfill. Plastic bags are everywhere. Along the road there are numerous impromptu "shrines" for those sick or injured. Some of these are marked by numerous red flags. Our tour guide relates the origin of the belief that these will cure the afflicted.

At Punta Tumbo we have about an hour to see the Magellanic penguins in their natural setting. About half of them have already returned to the sea. But some remain, in their burrows, in the open walking about, and at the edge of the sea. They are black and white, brown and white. Some are still fuzzy with molting feathers. Our only restrictions in being there are not to try to touch them though they are close by, and to stay within the marked walking paths. The penguins seem indifferent to our presence. We are amazed that we are there among them, watching, snapping photos of their odd postures, and shooting videos of their seemingly ungainly walk. Among the penguins we also see guanacos and several unidentified birds. We all wished we had more time to just sit, enjoy, and learn. Too soon it is time for the walk back to the bus, a box lunch, and the 100 mile return trip.

We arrive with no time to walk about Puerto Madryn, which was settled by 150 Welsh immigrants in 1865. However, its proximity to Punta Tumbo and Peninsula Valdes make it an important destination for penguin and right whale seekers. Peninsula Valdes is a well-known UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve

Then we are at sea again, out in the Atlantic bound for the Falkland Islands, or the Malvinas (depending on your political bent).

First Stop Montevideo

Candombe drummers whose music is based on African Bantu rhythms and other European and tango influences.

Montevideo is our first port-of-call. On a warm, sunny day, four of us walk out of the ship into the tourist market area of the city. Architecture is old and ornate, much of it dilapidated. There are some newer buildings in the main business area. Tourist police are very visible. There are numerous street musicians (see photo above) and leather craft stands selling hair ornaments, belts, purses, and even funny leather faces.

We venture three blocks on, to the Gaucho and Mint Museums in a restored 1896 house showing French and Italian styles. It has wonderful woodwork (staircases and inlaid wooden floors), marble, ceiling paintings, and stained glass windows. The building was totally restored by the Banco Republica. Gauchos were the Argentine and Uruguayan cowboys. Display cases show a large collection of traditional silver gaucho spurs and horse trappings, long knives and belt buckles bigger than any from Texas. The variety of silver items made me think that perhaps the wealth of the cowboys was in the silver they collected and wore.

On our way back we have our own experience with a pick-pocket. A block away from the famous Plaza Independencia, Henry catches a young man's hand as he slips it into his pocket. The ladron pulls free and runs away. We report the incident to the tourist police and they catch up to us two more times, asking for more information, a description that they can use to identify him. We're not much help; it all happened so fast.