Punta Tombo Rookery

Magellanic penguin at Punta Tombo rookery, Patagonia

As we land in Puerto Madryn, no time is lost in hustling passengers onto waiting excursion buses bound for the Punta Tombo penguin rookery 100 miles south. It's a long ride, and through desolate countryside. We see no trees, but desert vegetation, and in some places much litter from what appears to be an open landfill. Plastic bags are everywhere. Along the road there are numerous impromptu "shrines" for those sick or injured. Some of these are marked by numerous red flags. Our tour guide relates the origin of the belief that these will cure the afflicted.

At Punta Tumbo we have about an hour to see the Magellanic penguins in their natural setting. About half of them have already returned to the sea. But some remain, in their burrows, in the open walking about, and at the edge of the sea. They are black and white, brown and white. Some are still fuzzy with molting feathers. Our only restrictions in being there are not to try to touch them though they are close by, and to stay within the marked walking paths. The penguins seem indifferent to our presence. We are amazed that we are there among them, watching, snapping photos of their odd postures, and shooting videos of their seemingly ungainly walk. Among the penguins we also see guanacos and several unidentified birds. We all wished we had more time to just sit, enjoy, and learn. Too soon it is time for the walk back to the bus, a box lunch, and the 100 mile return trip.

We arrive with no time to walk about Puerto Madryn, which was settled by 150 Welsh immigrants in 1865. However, its proximity to Punta Tumbo and Peninsula Valdes make it an important destination for penguin and right whale seekers. Peninsula Valdes is a well-known UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve

Then we are at sea again, out in the Atlantic bound for the Falkland Islands, or the Malvinas (depending on your political bent).