Crater Lake National Park in Autumn

Wizard Island, Crater Lake National Park

Caldera's Edge

The Watchman

One week ago today, we drove south on Highway 97 toward Ashland. October is the last month of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Members this year, we had yet to enjoy any plays there, so this was our last chance. We usually go without buying tickets, hoping to "rush" plays, saving some money and seeing more plays. The Festival internet site listed most plays as having "many" tickets available. So, we went and trusted that we'd be in luck.

On the way, we headed into the Cascade mountains under overcast skies at the turnoff to Crater Lake and Diamond Lake. As we approached the Park, the skies cleared and instead of skirting the lake to the west, we decided to drive the rim road. With the sky blue, we anticipated seeing once again the amazing deep blue of the famous fathomless lake and the steep rocky sides of the caldera. We were not disappointed. Reaching the first view turn-off, we walked up to the rim and gasped. Maybe that was from the altitude, but more likely, the lake itself once again took our breath away. On south around the rim are wonderful vistas. At the Watchman, we looked down on Wizard Island, the small volcanic cone where the small lake research boat is kept out of sight. Our Oregon State University Forestry staff was once privileged to spend a day on the lake with the national park research unit, an experience that will stay with me forever. After chili con carne for lunch at the Rim Village, we followed 62 past Union Creek, down the west side of the Cascades, through stands of old evergreens, yellow aspens and big-leaf maple, and red vine maple, all brilliant in the slanting clear autumn sunlight.

In Ashland, the plays we wanted to see--The Music Man, Macbeth, and Equivocation--had only a "few" tickets remaining, so we bought at our member discount rate. Wednesday we took a warm morning walk through Lithia Park, especially lovely this time of year. How lucky we are.

Gig Harbor, then Back to Olympia

Gig Harbor Light

Amazing Grace, Topsail Schooner

Down Colvos Channel it is impossible to sail with the wind facing us, so it is a day of motoring and then to Arabella's Landing to relax in Gig Harbor. In the evening we eat on the deck of the Tides Tavern.

No use starting south under the Narrows Bridge until the tide and currents turn. Our departure isn't until 11am and I have time to do the washing before we go. Nice to have that done. The current carries us all the way to Olympia; again no sailing but we pass familiar places the McNeil Island penitentiary, Eagle Island, Filucy Bay, and Dofflemeyer Point before turning into Budd Bay. Along the way the topsail schooner Amazing Grace passes us going north--motoring. No sails for her either. We are glad to be back in Olympia, but there is regret that sailing, at least for 2009 is mostly over now.

Past LaConner, On to Seattle

Seattle under a Full Moon

Parasailing out of Bell Harbour Marina

Que Syrah under Sail

After the morning fog lifted, we two and our guest ladies motored south at low tide to the Swinomish Channel. We saw at least 200 herons on the mud flats and a large group of lazy seals sunning themselves. Fortunately, most boats observed the low speeds required to avoid wakes in the narrow channel. We floated under the red Rainbow Bridge in LaConner and then, after a 90-degree turn, we were surprised to see a good friend aground. There on its side lay his Albin 25. After leaving LaConner at 5:30 am in the fog, he missed the turn. So, eight hours of waiting until the tide rose to float him; no harm done, only embarassment. Later he passed us while we were sailing out of Oak Harbor, and then we talked at the dock in Oak Harbor. After steak, potatoes, and zucchini for dinner at the dock picnic table, we had a peaceful evening.

The next day was a long slog to Kingston. We sailed a bit, but there's not much headway when the wind is on one's nose. But seas were relatively calm, so one can't complain too much.

Morning begins with crepes from the little shop by the ferry dock--the Jean-Valjean for some, Le Magnifique for me, and for Sally the fresh Peach Melba with ice cream! We discover that other friends are also on the dock on the beautiful Que Syrah, so more visiting before both boats depart. Immediately out of Kingston, we raise the sails and sail all the way to Seattle Bell Harbor. Que Syrah, a larger sailboat with an expert skipper, quickly outpaces us and leaves us for Tacoma. Both our guests get plenty of practice at the helm and they smile and smile. One more dinner aboard with Avignon sausages from the Pike Place Market, one more night of conversation and our ladies depart. We are on our own again.

Weather Forecasts Determine Course

Mt. Baker Watches over Anacortes

Fog is forecast for the Strait of Juan de Fuca and there is fog out of Friday Harbor. We can see the fog over there. We decide against transiting the Strait of Juan de Fuca in favor of the more protected route through the San Juans and east to Anacortes. As usual, we wait for conditions to be the best we can expect and then cast off. Jules has radar so we take the lead; Ruby and Discovery follow. The fog clears in the San Juans, but it is still there as we motor through Thatcher Pass into Rosario Strait. There are fast moving ferries and several other vessels out in the shipping channel. On east, as we reach Guemes Channel, the fog clears and we see the buoys. Red, right, returning.

Unwilling to give up the chance, the sails are deployed and our friends get their chance to experience the joy when we turn off the motor and Jules whooshes along, back and forth. Ruby circles us and heads south through the Swinomish Channel, to end up at Langley at 10 pm. The charter boat Discovery goes to her home marina to visit the pump-out, fuel dock, and to be cleaned, and turned in. Finally, we tie up at Cap Sante marina.

Part of the afternoon is spent in a beautiful cross-stitch shop in downtown Anacortes, but it's "just looking" for us. Then at 7pm we meet the Discovery crew at the Brown Lantern brew pub for lamb burgers with chutney--mmm! We say good-bye to our wonderful Missouri friends. We women play a few games (Bananas, and a new one) before we turn in. Everyone sleeps well.

Sidney Rendezvous

Red Sea Cucumber, feeding part

Fabled Ranger 20 Sailboat

Ferry Landing, Friday Harbor

Some sailing and some motoring get us to the Port of Sidney marina H dock by early afternoon. Clear water reveals amazing sea life under the docks. The plan is to gather under the white tent on the dock with deli treats purchased with R20 dues. Unexpectedly, there are nearly 40 people who show up. Boats are spread out all over the large marina. Some new folks are there including a couple from Florence, Oregon and a young couple on a Ranger 20! After nice long conversations and brownies, swans appear in the twilight.

The next morning, two boats sail out to Sidney Spit park. Other sailors head to the bus stop for a day trip to Victoria. Some of us relax in beautiful Sidney, roaming the second-hand boat parts store, and the numerous book stores. There is free internet and 2 for 1 coffee drinks with a coupon from the marina. Then at 5pm the Thursday night street fair begins with something for everyone--fresh produce and baked goods, handicrafts, massages, antiques, and one-of-a-kind tie dyes.

Before casting off the next morning, there is a report from one who has gone ahead across the Haro Strait that there is fog and 10-foot waves out there. Jules and Altrice brave the seas together. By the time we reach Speiden Channel, the currents have changed in our favor and the seas flatten out.

In Friday Harbor we clear Customs and head to our assigned slip just in time to meet the 5pm Anacortes ferry, Elwah. Two ladies have come to sail with us on Jules for the next four days. There are still several friends' boats here for the evening and we all go to Mark's favorite Friday Harbor pizza parlor for the meat-lovers special.

Running to Genoa Bay, Then to Maple Bay

Playing in Maple Bay

Salvaged Propeller from Vessel Sunk in Sansum Narrows in the 30's

Guys Test Discovery

Out of Ganges on a bright morning with the sun on the water, it's difficult to spot crab pots. Both of us keep watch. Even then, some we see and others we spot only when they are abeam or astern. No sailing here until we reach clear water out by Beaver Point. The wind is stiff and we tack out across Swanson Channel. Coming about, it's south until we reach Satellite Channel. There the wind is gentle from astern and we run with it all the way to quiet and lovely Genoa Bay. More R20 friends gather in the evening on the dock for conversation. Late in the afternoon all go for separate dinners on their boats at the dock or at anchor.

It's only a few miles north up Sansum Narrows to Maple Bay. Clearing the Narrows brings a freshening breeze from the north. Ruby, Discovery, and Jules play for an hour or two before heading to our evening moorage and dinner at the pub. It's hot after we land, and we seek shade and then air conditioned comfort--lemonade, sweet Canadian iced tea, and beer. Maple Bay has old salvaged marine engines painted red sitting about the grounds. There's a flurry of activity early in the morning at the marina laundry. Lots of quarters are fed into the two washers and dryers. Later, the Cheryl Lynn and Altrice dock. Most of the men spend the afternoon aboard Discovery out on the cool water testing the sailing prowess of this charter Pacific Seacraft.

No Oklahoma, But Chamber Music

Gatherers, Hastings House Sculpture Trail

Provincial Flags at Sunset, Otter Bay

The Cut, canal between Thetis Island and Kuper Island that dries at low tide

Back again to Telegraph Harbour where there are oysters on the rocks at low tide. We really wanted to see Oklahoma being presented in Chemainus. Both the matinee and evening performances were sold out. Henry was able to get a meatlovers pizza from the Marina soda fountain, though. We spent the evening there talking politics with Lou from Las Vegas, who visited us from his 53-foot motor boat.

On south to Otter Bay and its beautiful swimming pool, welcome on a hot day. Then to Ganges.

For more than twenty years, a small group of sailors has met for a "national" cruise. We all began to sail in these waters with 20-foot long Ranger sailboats. The boats are small, but very forgiving, and we believe they are unsinkable. During the last ten years most of us have found other larger boats, mostly sailboats, and we still meet every year for a cruise. Last night we dined again in Ganges with our long-time friends and we'll be with them for the next week. Tonight we meet for an Italian dinner out at Auntie Pesto's, then a performance of chamber music by the University of Toronto Conservatory faculty. I'll be replaying that music in my mind all night and all day tomorrow.