Away, Far Far Away

Across the broad vast Pacific through the night, across the equator and the dateline time warp, we flew. As the light of day appeared, we were in Auckland, New Zealand, the City of Sails. We took the shuttle to our hotel, The Quadrant, which is across the street from the University and on the other side is Albert Park. Now we can see the water from our window on the 12th floor, between the tall buildings. But before we could check in, we found the library, Starbucks, the Britomart train station, and lamb pizza for lunch all in the pouring rain. By afternoon we were happy to have a shower and a nap. In the evening, walking to dinner, a beautiful bride with her father and bridesmaids in mauve were being photographed. Then we passed a group of enthusiastic youngsters in Red Cross t-shirts asking for Christchurch assistance donations. At the Caravanserei restaurant, we ate delicious Turkish kefte meatballs and pastitio. Then came finally the welcome long night's rest.

Rangitoto Journal Entry by Sarah Mathew 1840

Rangitoto Bush
March 7, 2011

"Track or path there was none after we left the beach. We were more than three hours in the ascent, every step over huge masses of brittle substance, sometimes so thin as to break under our feet, every interstice filled with fern or shrubs and parasitic plants, which were in some places a help their tough streamers giving us something to hold on by when scoria and broken rocks rolled from our feet. At last we reached the summit, all quite exhausted and sat down to rest and breathe. We found the top of the mountain was a steep hollow and surrounded by irregular peaks, apparently formed by the action of the volcanoe throwing up heaps of ashes or scoria in several directions, probably at different periods. The wind blew so strong at the summit, we could scarcely stand, and after resting awhile we began our descent.

"The sharp rocks and scoria had worn my boots to pieces, and my dress of grey merino was torn to shreds, struggling through the thorny brushwood and by the sharp edges of the rocks.

"Thankful was I to see the shore and boat at last."

North Island Overlander Train

 

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

The  Overlander train from Auckland to Wellington leaves from the underground Britomart station at 7:25 am and arrives at Wellington at 7:25 pm, exactly 12 hours later. Mostly for tourists, this North Island long-distance slow train journey passes through suburban areas, pastoral countryside, and the scenic Central Plateau with its remote rivers and volcanic peaks. It stops briefly at the national park station for views of Mount Ruapehu, the highest point on the North Island.

Our assigned seats are in the last carriage and we can move freely to the very back of the train where there are windows all around and comfortable seating. It's an opportunity to get to know fellow travelers and watch the scenery and train tracks recede from us. The weather is fine but it's difficult to take photos through the windows. We can go forward and stand on the small platform between cars in the fresh air and listen to the clacking of the wheels on the tracks and try to snap photos.

The rail line is an engineering marvel, incorporating 25 major bridges and 14 tunnels. The Raurimu Spiral is 11 km of track with a complete circle and three long sharp curves to ascend the steep terrain and advance 5.5 km. It's possible for us to look forward at the train engine as it makes these turns and passes over the tall viaducts, one is 79m tall. Begun in 1884, the track was completed in Novermber of 1908.

I note a few sights along the way. As we leave Auckland, there are small brick or frame homes with clothes flapping on clotheslines. Passing into the green rolling countryside, there are nursery trees, greenhouses, then sheep, cattle, and corn fields. One sign advertises wool scourers. The conductor tells about the Whangamarino wetlands preserve for waterfowl over the loudspeaker. The mining town of Huntly has a thermal (coal?) power station. We follow the route of the colonial army in 1863 as it pushed back Maori warriors and took the land during the Waikato War. Taupiri is the sacred burial mountain of the Maori Kings, the Maori Queen and other Maori. Even now, Maori honk car horns as they pass by to say hello to their ancestors. Then there is Waikato River, the longest in New Zealand. As we slide into Wellington, some business signs--the local Countdown supermarket. The old train station is right downtown and our Ibis hotel is four blocks away, an easy and welcome walk after a long ride.

One Day in Wellington

 

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

If the South Island is the canoe, the North Island is a very large fish and Wellington's harbor is the fish's mouth. This vibrant compact city is the NZ capital and its people are purposeful and energetic. The city is confined by the steep hills which surround the downtown area. With only one day here, after a long day on the train from Auckland, we intend to walk as far as we can.

Early in the morning after an unremarkable breakfast at the hotel, we head to the Cable Car only a block away. The Car chugs up the steep incline, carrying us tourists to the Botanic Garden and families to upper neighborhoods. Once atop the hill on the high point of the city, we enjoy the panorama and begin our walk northward toward Bowen Street along pathways through native trees, flowers, and shrubs. We pause often along the way, taking photos, watching butterflies, birds, and children. Finally we reach Bowen street with its historic clapboard houses. Then it's on through an old cemetary with names from the British Isles, over a viaduct, and into the government district with large old wooden buildings and the iconic "Beehive," the offices of government officials. We complete the circle and stop by the hotel to drop off our jackets.

Heading south on Featherston Street, we find the Civic Square where metal Nikau palms surround and support the structure of the Central Library. There also is an art gallery and a theater for film festivals. Eventually we find Cuba Street, with its quirky shops and eccentric young people. At Ernesto's delightful light lunch fare is reasonably priced. I'm tempted to stick around just to watch people and activities in this district. But we continue our circuitous walk along waterfront parks and past store windows. Soon it is dark so it's back to the hotel. Later in the evening we have shepherd's pie at a crowded local pub where we listen to live local Celtic music.

One day in Wellington is not enough. The famous Te Papa museum is a reason to return. Tomorrow we leave the North Island "fish," cross Cook Strait and enter the South Island "canoe."

Across Cook Strait, Picton and Around

 

Thursday, March 10, 2011

The Bluebridge ferry leaves early from its berth near the Wellington train station. Luckily it's a beautiful day and the seas are calm, belying the Strait's reputation for high winds and rough seas. For most of the several hours it takes to cross to Picton, we stand on the bow of the ship and enjoy the sun and stunning views. There is a large sailboat that follows us out of Wellington and when we reach Marlborough Sound passages, dolphins ride our bow wake. There is aquaculture and forest clearcutting along the shores.

When we reach Picton the car rental agency is just across the parking lot. We hop in our little car and, remembering to drive on the left side, we head south then west to the Equestrian Lodge at Motueka. There are no horses and no lodge, but housekeeping units around gardens and a swimming pool. It's near summer's end so the pool is unkempt. There are many small butterflies struggling on its surface. I sweep my hand in and bring a few out to dry in the sun and fly away. Behind the units are clotheslines and a trampoline. This is our home for the next three nights. We find the grocery store, eat dinner, and spend the evening planning--so much to see. Later when no one is looking I go out back and jump on the trampoline, higher and higher.

Marble Mountain, Pupu Springs

 

Friday, March 12, 2011

Getting the sense of the land and sea, this is a drive around day. Taking route 60 from Motueka over Takaka Hill to Golden Bay, there is much to see. Looking back from the top of the hill, there are orchards of apples ready for harvest and fields of hops on trellises. 

Beyond, we walk a path amid the fantastic shapes of marble. Onward to Te Waikoropupu Springs, the largest freshwater springs in NZ and the purest. We walk around the "Pupu Springs" Reserve. It's quite a lovely introduction to beautiful natural systems. The springs are incredibly clear and blue, the forests have trees we've never seen before, there is a beautiful white egret in a tree above and a blackbird singing by the parking lot. We eat the lunch we packed at a picnic table on Golden Bay among many gulls. Heading back, we find Labyrinth Rocks Park and the Grove. These are small parks with amazing limestone canyons and native "bush." 

At the end of our drive we stop off at Kaiteriteri to inquire about a boat taxi to Torrent Bay in Abel Tasman National Park. That's our plan for tomorrow--to take the boat out and walk back along the coast. And so back to the Equestrian Lodge and supper.

No Abel Tasman, But Nelson and Ruby Bay

 

Saturday, March 12, 2011

A day not soon forgotten. It's the day of the massive Japanese disaster. The Christchurch newspaper big headline reads, "Quake, tsunami hit Japan." We're worried about family in Japan. Folks are advised to stay away from NZ beaches in case there's a tsunami here. We alter our plans for the day. Sadly, we won't see much of Abel Tasman National Park.

We head uphill to Upper Moutere on a back road through the countryside, stopping at the Newdorf winery which is not yet open. The Moutere Inn, NZ's oldest pub isn't open either. There is an old German settlement (1843) called Sarau. At first pioneer life here was difficult, subsistence farming then the adoption of cash crops "pip-fruit," hops, and tobacco. We visit the original St. Paul's Lutheran Church and cemetary.

Luckily, on Saturday there is a farmer's and craft open market in Nelson. There are lots of fresh apples and other late summer produce. It's tempting to buy souvenirs but I just don't know enough yet, especially about greenstone. Young families take advantage of the produce deals though. We head uphill to Christ Church Cathedral on the hill. There's an organ recital underway. We peek in for a moment to see the church interior and listen briefly. In a nearby neighborhood there are rental holiday homes that look very inviting.

On the way back to Motueka, we detour to the drive along Ruby Bay stopping to have a late afternoon snack of green-lipped mussels. Mmm, yummy. In the evening news, we hear that the tsunami here was only a few inches. Still thinking about the awful disaster.

Pancake Rocks

 

Glaciers

 

Aspiring Mt Aspiring, Wanaka

 

Milford Sound, Te Anau

 

Looking for Bluff Oysters, Invercargill

 

Otago Peninsula and Dunedin

 

Royal Albatross

Sunday, March 20 and Monday Morning, March 21, 2011

It's a long drive under overcast skies from Invercargill to Dunedin. Dunedin, Edinburgh of the south, was for Scottish settlers a major sheltered port deriving wealth from a gold rush starting in 1861, and then farming and shipping of fiber and frozen meat. All that wool and the extra animals must get to market. Miners came mostly from Australia, and the wealth contributed to the Gothic Revival architecture done in bluestone and limestone, and the establishment in 1871 of the University of Otago with about 25,000 students today.

Otago Harbour is bordered on the east by the Otago Peninsula and then the Pacific. Otago Peninsula is our destination for the afternoon as the skies clear and we find ourselves on a very narrow road heading north toward sanctuaries for rare wildlife. At the north end at Taiaroa Head are Royal Albatrosses wheeling overhead. There is a nesting colony with baby birds we could see for a hefty fee, but with limited time, we opt not to do that. There are also fur seals on the east side of the point and, we understand, penguin colonies. We'd need to stay until evening to see them come ashore. The albatrosses are massive birds and we spend quite a lot of time just tipping our heads back watching them soaring aloft, coming in from fishing at sea. Truly amazing. A very patient Stewart Island shag sits unperturbed at the end of the parking lot. About halfway down the peninsula and out an unpaved track is the NZ Marine Studies Centre and Aquarium where we see blue cod (local fish and chips fish) and other native fishes. I buy a beautiful abalone shell as a remembrance.

In Dunedin finally there is our B-and-B. An older couple is spending a week there, escaping their fear of earthquakes at their home in Christchurch. The proprietor shows us the shared kitchen where we can cook, if we wish. Our room overlooks an old neighborhood of stately homes, most now converted to apartments or lodging. The recommended evening dinner spot was Speight's Brewery (1876), a downhill walk. Not too difficult to sell Henry on that idea. After eating we walk around downtown Dunedin. There is the Octagon "square," the statue of Robert Burns, and the spires of St. Paul's Cathedral (Anglican).

The next morning it's raining again. The owner of the B&B suggests a drive out along the west side of Otago Harbour to Port Chalmers, and to the point opposite the albatross colony. There is a long breakwater there. We get out and walk way to the end. People are fishing, divers are snorkeling for abalone, there are fur seals, gulls, shags, and offshore a small bird. I'm calling it my blue penguin, even though visibililty wasn't good in the rain, but it was about the right size. Soaked and driving back toward Dunedin, we search for lunch in Port Chalmers, but it's all closed up. So, back to downtown to an Irish pub to eat and decide what's next. We run into our friends from Christchurch at the pub.

Taieri Gorge Railway, "One of the World's Great Train Trips"

Monday Afternoon, March 21, 2011

After such a rainy morning, we look for a dry warm afternoon and buy the last two tickets for the run on the Limited. We board a restored wooden 1920s car for the round-trip from the historic Dunedin train station, with its foyer bright with Royal Doulton tiles and mosaic floor, to a sunny rural place near the highest point of the railway. There the conductors disengage the locomotive and move it to the other end of the train for the journey back. We have come from a soggy day on the Pacific coast up the mountains through an old gold prospecting area in the sunshine.

The rail line was built from 1879 to 1921 through very rugged mountains, a major engineering feat with about a dozen high trestles. At times we can look forward or backward and see one end of the curving train elevated on these viaducts made of stone and wrought iron. Our four-hour trip is 58km up and 58km back, with intermittent breaks when we are able to disembark and look out over the wilderness and canyons where gold miners searched for fortune. At the top some passengers disembark with their bicycles to continue on the Otago Central Rail Trail toward Wanaka and Queenstown. If we'd had more time and been more organized, we'd have considered doing that.

We're glad to stand up and walk back to our bed and breakfast after so much sitting in the old wooden rail car as it swayed and jolted through the Gorge, even if we must walk in the rain.

Moeraki Boulders

 

Only a little way north of Dunedin is a beach where large spheres, the Moeraki Boulders, lie. Their perfect shapes and sizes are quite unusual. The boulders fall out of the mudstone cliffs behind the beach. There are small spheres, too, but most of these are picked up and taken by visitors. On the beach the stones decay and reveal their interiors of lime crystals.

Of course the Maori have a story to explain the boulders. They believed that the boulders were food baskets or water gourds from a wrecked canoe. The nearby reef was supposed to be a canoe hull wreck and a large rock was the canoe's navigator. Connections from the past into the present, from people relating to the land. In fact, all of the South Island is envisioned by Maori to be a canoe, with Stewart Island just off the southernmost point its anchor. The North Island is a very large fish caught by the fishermen in the canoe (South Island).

Oamaru

 

On the way to Christchurch is a small town, Oamaru. It is known for its outlandish neoclassical whitestone public architecture, built between 1871 and 1883 from the wealth accumulated from quarrying, timber and farming. We stop here for lunch at a small bistro, even though we are far from our day's destination. After lunch we walk for a time along the broad Thames street. We meet a woman playing the accordian outside a storefront. She stops playing, knows we are from the US, and asks us, "I think Obama is trying to do the right thing, don't you?" So many people look to America for world leadership and are interested in our politics. She goes back to playing old songs and we put some coins in the accordian case.

Oamaru is also known for its penguin colonies. Both the small blue penguins and the yellow-eyed penguins come ashore in the evening. The blues march past a grandstand specially built for penguin viewing. We're here too early in the day to see these charming birds. Oamaru was also the home of Janet Frame, one of New Zealand's greatest writers. I'll try to find one of her books.

We drive north and by-pass Christchurch, so recently devastated by that earthquake. We are able to drive through without seeing much evidence of damage, passing on the west near the airport. On to Kaikoura.