Kaikoura or Koha O Marokura, Gift of Marokura

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

According to legend, Marokura, a young god, created this bountiful region. Two peninsulas and deep sea canyons mix the cold southern waters with the warm northern seas. The result is upwelling and an abundance of sea life. Frequent sightings of sperm and humpback whales, and orcas bring visitors to Maori boat trips. The seas are often rough, as they are today.

The Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway is our choice, an 11km out-and-back. We park by the fur seal colony and follow the path uphill along the cliffs. Then there are steps down to the beach, where we see terns, red- and black-billed gulls, black oystercatchers, shags, and rabbits. The scenery is breathtakingly expansive and dramatically wild. Off-shore where the water drops to its kilometer deep canyon the water changes from aqua to deep blue. There is a cool breeze, but we move along enjoying the air in our faces.

In an abalone shell factory shells are polished to iridescent loveliness. The Fyffe House whaler cottage rests on its whalebone foundation since 1842. The best food is from a trailer on the beach where we order abalone.

Hello from Napier

Friday, March 25

We left Wellington early after picking up another rental car. Traveling north, our destination for the day, Napier. Reading in the Rough Guide and the Lonely Planet, we hope to find a place to stop and explore before we arrive. That spot turns out to be the Pukaha Mount Bruce National Wildlife Centre and we're just in time for the naturalist walk. The first stop is feeding of the long-fin eels, in a frenzy as pellets hit the water. A single large trout hangs about. Then we walk by spacious pens where native endangered birds are raised until they're big enough to defend themselves from imported predators and then released into the surrounding forests. There is a kiwi house where one might observe kiwis. Active only at night, the kiwis are difficult to find and watch. The naturalist disturbs a resting young kiwi to weigh and evaluate its progress. She brings it close to the fence for us to see up close and photograph.

Napier is a phoenix town. On February 3, 1931, for two to three minutes, Napier was rocked by an 7.9 magnitude earthquake. Much of the downtown was destroyed by the earth's wrenching upward 6 meters and the ensuing fires. Land appeared, where there was none before, enough for an airport. The town was rebuilt immediately in the style of the time—Art Deco. We stayed in the County Hotel (a former government building), one of the few buildings to survive the earthquake, beautifully redecorated, with few patrons. We had our first lamb shanks and kumara mash (sweet potato) in the neighborhood Irish pub across the street, complete with a bar imported from Belfast and lively Celtic music. The next morning we walked the broad streets to find breakfast at a sidewalk table and then returned to the hotel along Marine Parade shoreline park. Heading north to volcano country. Bye, bye to Napier.

Playing in a Caldera

 

In the Frying Pan (Caldera)

Sunday, March 27

Ever wonder about the sense of people who live with the knowledge that their world may change in an instant from volcanoes and earthquakes, where the evidence of cataclysm is all around and yet they stay and build as if there is nothing to worry about? That is Rotorua and its environs, where the air smells of sulfur and the lake water steams from vents beneath the surface. The Te Arawa people adapted, appreciating the warm earth in winter, cooking their food in hot water, bathing in the warm water. Birds didn't need sit on their nests to keep eggs warm. When Europeans discovered this area with geysers, boiling mud, and warm mineral pools, tourism and the health spa business took off. However one night in 1886, Mount Tarawera erupted, destroying the beautiful Pink and White Terraces and terrifying Maori and Europeans alike. The Original Bath House now the Rotorua Museum is next to the Government Gardens, where croquet is still played.

Yesterday, we hiked in a downpour in the Craters of the Moon (on the road from Lake Taupo to Rotorua). This active volcanic site resulted from the construction of the Waitakei geothermal power station which changed the underground water dynamics. Warnings were frequent: stay on the paths, don't step into a fumarole. Steam was everywhere, more so because of the rain.

We strolled along the lake in Rotorua this Sunday afternoon in the sunshine, observing residents and tourists alike, there in the caldera. We did not see all the spectacular geothermal sites. Perhaps some day we will bravely return, trusting we will not be caught by some natural disaster.