Bluff Cove Lagoon, Falkland Islands

The passage offshore from Puerto Madryn was rough. Winds were up to 40 knots and the seas were 18-20 feet. Just imagine dancers in last night's show keeping their balance while the Stardust Lounge curtains swayed crazily on either side. Happily none of our group became seasick. This morning it was uncertain whether we would be able to land tenders at the Falkland Islands. After about an hour's delay, the seas calmed somewhat and we headed in to meet our ride to Bluff Cove Lagoon.

First was a van ride in the fog and rain out of Stanley. We met our 4x4 Landrover driver who immediately took us off-road. We dropped off the highway between stone runs and powered through rocks and mud and vegetation, slipping through small streams, bumping up and down and sideways. Stone runs are "rivers" of boulders. The trip was extremely messy because of the rain. Our driver was a former sheep farmer. He and his son, among others, brought their Landrovers for this trip to earn some extra cash. The price of wool is down so farmers take advantage of the cruise ship landings to drive visitors on this excursion to Bluff Cove Lagoon. This was our first off-road experience and we really got an initiation. By the time we arrived, the Landrover, including its windows, were covered with mud. It continued to be foggy and misty.

Bluff Cove Farm is a family farm like none I've seen before. They raise Perendale sheep (4-5 acres per sheep) and belted Galloway cattle on about 35,000 acres, but we didn't see much of this livestock. Our driver dropped us off at the Bluff Cove Lagoon and we got out into the inclement weather to see hundreds of Gentoo penguins and one King penguin with its chicks. We were cold but we forgot about the uncomfortable wind and wetness as we watched these wonderful creatures. The King penguin was taller and more colorful than the rest with orange and yellow ear patches and neck. It stood in one place tending its three chicks. It was easy to photograph this beautiful family. The Gentoo penguins were much more active, walking about with their wings flapping out in the wind for balance. The Gentoos have a white stripe above their eyes and orange beaks and feet, a rather clown-like appearance next to the stately King.

When the cold finally penetrated to our bones, we walked up the hill to see Hattie and her family and friends at the Sea Cabbage Cafe. This being the last cruise of the year to arrive at the Falklands, they roasted lamb and upland geese and served these with homemade rolls, chutney, and champagne. All manner of delicious desserts came last. We enjoyed wild diddle dee berry preserves with scones along with tea in china cups and saucers to the accompaniment of old songs played on the accordion. We will remember Hattie's Sea Cabbage Cafe and that wild afternoon.