Punta Tombo Rookery

Magellanic penguin at Punta Tombo rookery, Patagonia

As we land in Puerto Madryn, no time is lost in hustling passengers onto waiting excursion buses bound for the Punta Tombo penguin rookery 100 miles south. It's a long ride, and through desolate countryside. We see no trees, but desert vegetation, and in some places much litter from what appears to be an open landfill. Plastic bags are everywhere. Along the road there are numerous impromptu "shrines" for those sick or injured. Some of these are marked by numerous red flags. Our tour guide relates the origin of the belief that these will cure the afflicted.

At Punta Tumbo we have about an hour to see the Magellanic penguins in their natural setting. About half of them have already returned to the sea. But some remain, in their burrows, in the open walking about, and at the edge of the sea. They are black and white, brown and white. Some are still fuzzy with molting feathers. Our only restrictions in being there are not to try to touch them though they are close by, and to stay within the marked walking paths. The penguins seem indifferent to our presence. We are amazed that we are there among them, watching, snapping photos of their odd postures, and shooting videos of their seemingly ungainly walk. Among the penguins we also see guanacos and several unidentified birds. We all wished we had more time to just sit, enjoy, and learn. Too soon it is time for the walk back to the bus, a box lunch, and the 100 mile return trip.

We arrive with no time to walk about Puerto Madryn, which was settled by 150 Welsh immigrants in 1865. However, its proximity to Punta Tumbo and Peninsula Valdes make it an important destination for penguin and right whale seekers. Peninsula Valdes is a well-known UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve

Then we are at sea again, out in the Atlantic bound for the Falkland Islands, or the Malvinas (depending on your political bent).

First Stop Montevideo

Candombe drummers whose music is based on African Bantu rhythms and other European and tango influences.

Montevideo is our first port-of-call. On a warm, sunny day, four of us walk out of the ship into the tourist market area of the city. Architecture is old and ornate, much of it dilapidated. There are some newer buildings in the main business area. Tourist police are very visible. There are numerous street musicians (see photo above) and leather craft stands selling hair ornaments, belts, purses, and even funny leather faces.

We venture three blocks on, to the Gaucho and Mint Museums in a restored 1896 house showing French and Italian styles. It has wonderful woodwork (staircases and inlaid wooden floors), marble, ceiling paintings, and stained glass windows. The building was totally restored by the Banco Republica. Gauchos were the Argentine and Uruguayan cowboys. Display cases show a large collection of traditional silver gaucho spurs and horse trappings, long knives and belt buckles bigger than any from Texas. The variety of silver items made me think that perhaps the wealth of the cowboys was in the silver they collected and wore.

On our way back we have our own experience with a pick-pocket. A block away from the famous Plaza Independencia, Henry catches a young man's hand as he slips it into his pocket. The ladron pulls free and runs away. We report the incident to the tourist police and they catch up to us two more times, asking for more information, a description that they can use to identify him. We're not much help; it all happened so fast.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Lighthouse at Colonia

Thirty miles across the Rio Plata from Buenos Aires is a very old colonial town founded about 1680, Colonia del Sacramento. It is easily reached by taking the Buquebus catamaran ferry from the waterfront. Crowds disperse in many directions upon landing. We headed up Rivera street to 18th of Julio and turned left, walking for several blocks to our hotel, Posada del Gobernador.

The hotel was just on the edge of the Barrio Historico and next to the old Portuguese church, Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento, simple and very beautiful. The streets are paved with uneven cobbles and the original colonial houses of Portuguese and Spanish design which line the streets are one-story stone, brick, and tile structures. Throughout the historic district there are small museums. A few were open, though high season is over and fall is beginning here. The remnants of the original walls of the city attest to the many conflicts between the Portuguese and Spanish for this little peninsula of land where the river narrows.

For dinner we ate pasta at a small restaurant and at about 9:00pm three musicians (keyboard, drums, and saxophone) began to play jazz. The old yellow street lamps, now electified, lit our way back with a soft glow.

Colonia was a quiet step back into history for us, and one of our favorite places.

Cruising Around the Horn

We will be out of touch for the next two weeks. The Norwegian Sun leaves tomorrow March 29, from Puerto Madera here in Buenos Aires. When we disembark in Valparaiso, Chile, we will begin our journey home. We should be home by April 15. So, until then, farewell.

Butterflies at Iguazu

Here are two of the many varieties of butterflies we saw on our recent trip. They are for now unidentified, but that is not what is important to me at this time. I just want to show what beautiful creatures we encountered while we were at Iguazu Falls.

This one lit on a rail in a thicket and was very patient while we shot numerous photos. Its wings were nearly transparent.

Iguazu National Park, Argentina and Brazil

Iguazu/Iguacu Falls

We have returned to Buenos Aires from an intense three days seeing the incredible Iguazu National Parks on both sides of the river, in Argentina and in Brazil. The Iguazu River is the border between the two nations there. Both parks are highly developed, and both have many visitors each day. One hears many languages along the crowded paths. But, despite the people, the heat and humidity, and the intense sun, the parks are delightful. We were distracted by the colorful butterflies of many colors that landed on our skin and clothing, often sticking to us for several minutes. We saw coatimundis, capuchin monkeys, plush headed jays, and big black spiders on their webs.

The falls are expansive and powerful, though we understand that the water volume when we saw them was not as high as it can be. We were still mightily impressed. On a river boat trip, we were drenched under one of the falls. But that felt wonderful on a hot day.

It was good to be back in the jungle again. It's so rich and alive and complex. However, it was also a relief to leave, knowing that the risks there are real.

Down Time, A Day of Rest

Floralis Generica sculpture opens in the morning, closes at dusk.

We've been walking about for several hours and several miles each day, exploring neighborhoods, eating at wonderful restaurants, learning from museums and monuments, escaping fast traffic when crossing streets, and enjoying outdoor craft and antiques markets. We rode a bus to San Telmo on Sunday. There is so much to absorb, it's good to rest and reflect for a day. Feet are sore. I've taken and kept over 200 photos so far.

We see the richness of Argentinian history, culture, and environment reflected through the architecture, street musicians, public sculptures, and the stylish people who walk in crowds in the shaded parks and shaded avenues. Women wear skirts and colorful high-heeled sandals. Men and women wear no hats. Children wear school uniforms and pull wheeled bags with their school work.

We've bought medialunas (croissants) and quiches at local bakeries, vegetables and fruits at small produce shops, and many standard items at the neighborhood supermercado and the close-by farmacia. Often we stroll out for dinner at a small restaurant, enjoying the ever-present beefsteak, or the lighter empanada fare. Sometimes we order something on the menu and are surprised with something different than we expected. There is a wonderful ice cream shop on the corner. We try to speak a little Spanish and often people respond in English. How do they know we are Norte Americanos?