Monday, July 13, 2009

Stuart Island, Another Time


Pacific Madrone trees, with red bark that peels to green, and glossy green leaves grow on rocks over the water

Prevost Harbor, Canada Beyond

Speiden (Safari) Island

We were in Friday Harbor for two nights, far out on H (Hotel) dock. From there it is a long way to the restrooms and showers, but the view east toward Mt. Baker compensates.

Friday morning we were able to sail north in San Juan channel way past Speiden Channel and Speiden Island. In the early 1970's, Speiden Island was renamed temporarily Safari Island. It was stocked with exotic wildlife and promoted as a place to hunt. The venture doesn't seem to have been successful, though from time to time, one can see through binoculars wildlife on shore, but no one hunts there now. The island is bordered by Speiden channel on the south, where rapid currents run to and from the Haro Strait creating strong rip tides. It's a rather direct passage to Sidney, BC, though.

Stuart Island is north of Speiden. It's our favorite place to be in the San Juans. Two beautiful harbors on the north and south sides are separated by a narrow isthmus, where there is a state park. One can only get to Stuart Island by boat or small plane. Its few full-time inhabitants lead self-sufficient lives. There is a one-room school on a country road, a swing from a tree along the quiet road, a cemetery, and the Turn Point lighthouse at the far northwest corner. Out in the Haro Strait and Boundary Pass beyond is the US-Canada border. Bedwell Harbor is only four miles away. We spend the night at anchor in Prevost Harbor on the north side of Stuart. It was a silent night, no wind, no rain.

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