Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Lighthouse at Colonia

Thirty miles across the Rio Plata from Buenos Aires is a very old colonial town founded about 1680, Colonia del Sacramento. It is easily reached by taking the Buquebus catamaran ferry from the waterfront. Crowds disperse in many directions upon landing. We headed up Rivera street to 18th of Julio and turned left, walking for several blocks to our hotel, Posada del Gobernador.

The hotel was just on the edge of the Barrio Historico and next to the old Portuguese church, Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento, simple and very beautiful. The streets are paved with uneven cobbles and the original colonial houses of Portuguese and Spanish design which line the streets are one-story stone, brick, and tile structures. Throughout the historic district there are small museums. A few were open, though high season is over and fall is beginning here. The remnants of the original walls of the city attest to the many conflicts between the Portuguese and Spanish for this little peninsula of land where the river narrows.

For dinner we ate pasta at a small restaurant and at about 9:00pm three musicians (keyboard, drums, and saxophone) began to play jazz. The old yellow street lamps, now electified, lit our way back with a soft glow.

Colonia was a quiet step back into history for us, and one of our favorite places.

Cruising Around the Horn

We will be out of touch for the next two weeks. The Norwegian Sun leaves tomorrow March 29, from Puerto Madera here in Buenos Aires. When we disembark in Valparaiso, Chile, we will begin our journey home. We should be home by April 15. So, until then, farewell.

Butterflies at Iguazu

Here are two of the many varieties of butterflies we saw on our recent trip. They are for now unidentified, but that is not what is important to me at this time. I just want to show what beautiful creatures we encountered while we were at Iguazu Falls.

This one lit on a rail in a thicket and was very patient while we shot numerous photos. Its wings were nearly transparent.

Iguazu National Park, Argentina and Brazil

Iguazu/Iguacu Falls

We have returned to Buenos Aires from an intense three days seeing the incredible Iguazu National Parks on both sides of the river, in Argentina and in Brazil. The Iguazu River is the border between the two nations there. Both parks are highly developed, and both have many visitors each day. One hears many languages along the crowded paths. But, despite the people, the heat and humidity, and the intense sun, the parks are delightful. We were distracted by the colorful butterflies of many colors that landed on our skin and clothing, often sticking to us for several minutes. We saw coatimundis, capuchin monkeys, plush headed jays, and big black spiders on their webs.

The falls are expansive and powerful, though we understand that the water volume when we saw them was not as high as it can be. We were still mightily impressed. On a river boat trip, we were drenched under one of the falls. But that felt wonderful on a hot day.

It was good to be back in the jungle again. It's so rich and alive and complex. However, it was also a relief to leave, knowing that the risks there are real.

Down Time, A Day of Rest

Floralis Generica sculpture opens in the morning, closes at dusk.

We've been walking about for several hours and several miles each day, exploring neighborhoods, eating at wonderful restaurants, learning from museums and monuments, escaping fast traffic when crossing streets, and enjoying outdoor craft and antiques markets. We rode a bus to San Telmo on Sunday. There is so much to absorb, it's good to rest and reflect for a day. Feet are sore. I've taken and kept over 200 photos so far.

We see the richness of Argentinian history, culture, and environment reflected through the architecture, street musicians, public sculptures, and the stylish people who walk in crowds in the shaded parks and shaded avenues. Women wear skirts and colorful high-heeled sandals. Men and women wear no hats. Children wear school uniforms and pull wheeled bags with their school work.

We've bought medialunas (croissants) and quiches at local bakeries, vegetables and fruits at small produce shops, and many standard items at the neighborhood supermercado and the close-by farmacia. Often we stroll out for dinner at a small restaurant, enjoying the ever-present beefsteak, or the lighter empanada fare. Sometimes we order something on the menu and are surprised with something different than we expected. There is a wonderful ice cream shop on the corner. We try to speak a little Spanish and often people respond in English. How do they know we are Norte Americanos?

Buenos Aires in the Daylight

It's 10:30 and we just woke up after a long 12 hours sleep. The flight from DC to Buenos Aires was brutal--a full flight with no leg room. But we survived. Allen and Beth met us at the airport and we had a crazy taxi ride to our neighborhood. After lunch we were able to check in to our apartment, which is quiet, roomy, and pleasant. There is a little park just off the balcony. Henry and Allen have just left to get medialunas (croissants) from the neighborhood bakery. We haven't planned anything for today yet. The weather is clear and warm with a soft breeze.

After spending the afternoon walking, visiting the famous cemetary in Recoleto, we're back to dinner in the apartment with leftovers from lunch out--sweet potato stuffed with corn, honey, and walnuts--various empanadas, and a delightful malbec wine from Mendoza. It's evening, and there are doves in the trees outside. We can see them from our balcony. My favorite place is the little wooden folding chair on the balcony among potted plants.

Beth has been very patient, helping me to set up this blog this evening. Now, after dark, with bare feet on wooden floors, I'm feeling tired and sore. It's time to rest.