One Day in Wellington

 

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

If the South Island is the canoe, the North Island is a very large fish and Wellington's harbor is the fish's mouth. This vibrant compact city is the NZ capital and its people are purposeful and energetic. The city is confined by the steep hills which surround the downtown area. With only one day here, after a long day on the train from Auckland, we intend to walk as far as we can.

Early in the morning after an unremarkable breakfast at the hotel, we head to the Cable Car only a block away. The Car chugs up the steep incline, carrying us tourists to the Botanic Garden and families to upper neighborhoods. Once atop the hill on the high point of the city, we enjoy the panorama and begin our walk northward toward Bowen Street along pathways through native trees, flowers, and shrubs. We pause often along the way, taking photos, watching butterflies, birds, and children. Finally we reach Bowen street with its historic clapboard houses. Then it's on through an old cemetary with names from the British Isles, over a viaduct, and into the government district with large old wooden buildings and the iconic "Beehive," the offices of government officials. We complete the circle and stop by the hotel to drop off our jackets.

Heading south on Featherston Street, we find the Civic Square where metal Nikau palms surround and support the structure of the Central Library. There also is an art gallery and a theater for film festivals. Eventually we find Cuba Street, with its quirky shops and eccentric young people. At Ernesto's delightful light lunch fare is reasonably priced. I'm tempted to stick around just to watch people and activities in this district. But we continue our circuitous walk along waterfront parks and past store windows. Soon it is dark so it's back to the hotel. Later in the evening we have shepherd's pie at a crowded local pub where we listen to live local Celtic music.

One day in Wellington is not enough. The famous Te Papa museum is a reason to return. Tomorrow we leave the North Island "fish," cross Cook Strait and enter the South Island "canoe."

Across Cook Strait, Picton and Around

 

Thursday, March 10, 2011

The Bluebridge ferry leaves early from its berth near the Wellington train station. Luckily it's a beautiful day and the seas are calm, belying the Strait's reputation for high winds and rough seas. For most of the several hours it takes to cross to Picton, we stand on the bow of the ship and enjoy the sun and stunning views. There is a large sailboat that follows us out of Wellington and when we reach Marlborough Sound passages, dolphins ride our bow wake. There is aquaculture and forest clearcutting along the shores.

When we reach Picton the car rental agency is just across the parking lot. We hop in our little car and, remembering to drive on the left side, we head south then west to the Equestrian Lodge at Motueka. There are no horses and no lodge, but housekeeping units around gardens and a swimming pool. It's near summer's end so the pool is unkempt. There are many small butterflies struggling on its surface. I sweep my hand in and bring a few out to dry in the sun and fly away. Behind the units are clotheslines and a trampoline. This is our home for the next three nights. We find the grocery store, eat dinner, and spend the evening planning--so much to see. Later when no one is looking I go out back and jump on the trampoline, higher and higher.

Marble Mountain, Pupu Springs

 

Friday, March 12, 2011

Getting the sense of the land and sea, this is a drive around day. Taking route 60 from Motueka over Takaka Hill to Golden Bay, there is much to see. Looking back from the top of the hill, there are orchards of apples ready for harvest and fields of hops on trellises. 

Beyond, we walk a path amid the fantastic shapes of marble. Onward to Te Waikoropupu Springs, the largest freshwater springs in NZ and the purest. We walk around the "Pupu Springs" Reserve. It's quite a lovely introduction to beautiful natural systems. The springs are incredibly clear and blue, the forests have trees we've never seen before, there is a beautiful white egret in a tree above and a blackbird singing by the parking lot. We eat the lunch we packed at a picnic table on Golden Bay among many gulls. Heading back, we find Labyrinth Rocks Park and the Grove. These are small parks with amazing limestone canyons and native "bush." 

At the end of our drive we stop off at Kaiteriteri to inquire about a boat taxi to Torrent Bay in Abel Tasman National Park. That's our plan for tomorrow--to take the boat out and walk back along the coast. And so back to the Equestrian Lodge and supper.

No Abel Tasman, But Nelson and Ruby Bay

 

Saturday, March 12, 2011

A day not soon forgotten. It's the day of the massive Japanese disaster. The Christchurch newspaper big headline reads, "Quake, tsunami hit Japan." We're worried about family in Japan. Folks are advised to stay away from NZ beaches in case there's a tsunami here. We alter our plans for the day. Sadly, we won't see much of Abel Tasman National Park.

We head uphill to Upper Moutere on a back road through the countryside, stopping at the Newdorf winery which is not yet open. The Moutere Inn, NZ's oldest pub isn't open either. There is an old German settlement (1843) called Sarau. At first pioneer life here was difficult, subsistence farming then the adoption of cash crops "pip-fruit," hops, and tobacco. We visit the original St. Paul's Lutheran Church and cemetary.

Luckily, on Saturday there is a farmer's and craft open market in Nelson. There are lots of fresh apples and other late summer produce. It's tempting to buy souvenirs but I just don't know enough yet, especially about greenstone. Young families take advantage of the produce deals though. We head uphill to Christ Church Cathedral on the hill. There's an organ recital underway. We peek in for a moment to see the church interior and listen briefly. In a nearby neighborhood there are rental holiday homes that look very inviting.

On the way back to Motueka, we detour to the drive along Ruby Bay stopping to have a late afternoon snack of green-lipped mussels. Mmm, yummy. In the evening news, we hear that the tsunami here was only a few inches. Still thinking about the awful disaster.

Pancake Rocks

 

Glaciers

 

Aspiring Mt Aspiring, Wanaka